A locavore’s guide to Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast: Where rare oysters, crisp wine and luscious olive oil await

Terracotta rooftops dotted on cliffs, an undulating shoreline with countless coves and the glistening waters of the Adriatic Sea made descending in Dubrovnik feel like landing into a film set. I probably wasn’t alone in thinking of Game of Thrones, the iconic HBO series that made this Croatian city the set-jetting capital of the world. Locals, however, had a different television moment in mind that day: almost winning the Eurovision 2024 title, missing it by only 18 points.
While Eurovision was part of the conversation during my five-day sojourn across Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, the loss didn’t entirely dampen the mood of locals. How could it? It’s hard to feel down when you live in what many would consider a textbook definition of paradise: thousands of miles of picturesque coastline, guaranteed sunshine and warm weather, plus a bounty of fresh food and delicious local wine.
Like the 7.2 million tourists that have visited Croatia so far in 2024, I came for all those reasons but I was particularly curious about Croatia’s food culture, which formed the backbone of this trip curated by Lightfoot Travel. My itinerary was designed like a tasting course of the Dalmatian Coast, highlighting four popular islands (out of the over 1,200 islands and islets in the Adriatic Sea) and uncovering its culinary secrets.
OLD TOWN, NEW PLEASURES
My first stop was Dubrovnik, and its grand dame, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik, offered quite the welcome. This five-star hotel dating back to 1913 has hosted the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Francis Ford Coppola, and continues to attract the glitterati.
Hotel Excelsior is tantalisingly close to the water’s edge that looking down from my suite at the new Tower Wing felt like staring below from a stateroom of a luxury cruise liner. The biggest asset of this former royal villa is distance—it’s directly across the bay and the old town so you can take in views of the UNESCO World Heritage Site while sipping a cocktail at the sundrenched terrace or enjoying a meal at fine-dining restaurant Sensus.
However, there’s no replacing being right in the action of the old town, which is just 10 minutes on foot. Along the way, our guide Denis regaled us with stories about the beautiful (but poisonous) Oleander trees, as well as King Edward VII and Wallis Simpson’s link to the nudist beaches on Lokrum island, also known for its ruins and resident peacocks.
Within the historic walled city, we explored the mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, and stopped at the Jesuit Stairs where the unforgettable Game of Thrones “Walk of Shame” scene was filmed. I spotted a good amount of bars and restaurants, but none as famous as Restaurant 360—one of only 11 Michelin-starred venues in the country. If you’re not indulging in a meal there, nearby Gianni offers homemade ice cream and pastries by the restaurant’s former pastry chef.
SEAS THE DAY
The culinary tour began in earnest the next morning when we took an hour-long drive to Ston, an area revered for its salt production. We headed to the village of Hodilje to a local oyster farm, and I was puzzled as to where it would be until we turned into a path that revealed a serene bay.
I met owner Dubravko Drazeta, who warmly welcomed me, my husband and our toddler onto his small boat. Off we went until we reached the middle of the bay with large drums bobbing above water where he stopped and set anchor. Then, he slowly raised a rope and gently harvested oysters, shucking them and placing them right into our hands. Savouring oysters straight from the sea is such a rare experience, but even more so knowing that you can only taste them here. These oysters take two and a half years to mature, and the painstaking hand production means they can only supply to local consumers.
The aroma of sauteed garlic from Buzara Mussels, a well-loved Croatian dish, began wafting into the air. From the olive oil to the onions, every ingredient was sourced from Dubravko’s family farm, and I could definitely taste the freshness. I had everything I needed on board—food, wine, peace and sunshine—and felt like I could stay here forever, but our next stop, Saints Hills Winery, was 30 minutes away.
Driving through the Peljesac Peninsula’s gorgeous scenery was an experience in itself, and this serves as the backdrop of the boutique family winery. Nestled in the Dingac vineyards — one of three they own in Croatia — Saints Hills wines are a reflection of the country’s sun, sea and stone.
From the robust Black Dalmatian red wine made with Plavac Mali to the refreshing Posh, crafted from the native white grape Posip, the bottles bring the essence of the land to life. The indigenous grape varieties of Croatia may not yet be familiar to many, but once you’ve had a taste, you’re bound to seek it out when you’re back home.
THE VENETIAN TOUCH
A swift car ferry ride and we arrived at the island of Korcula, once considered the last frontier between two great rivals: the Republic of Dubrovnik and the Republic of Venice. Our guide Lea explained why this was the busiest channel in the Adriatic, and how their humble island was always fought over throughout history.
It’s easy to see why: Strategic location aside, Korcula has an air of laid-back sophistication that invites you to linger. The historic walls of its old town aren’t as well preserved as in Dubrovnik, but Korcula boasts the most important element of building a fortress: high-quality limestone. Korcula’s renowned export is found in the grandest Croatian edifices, as well as in the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul and the Stockholm Town Hall.
The walking tour in Korcula’s old town also showcased its advanced urban planning. For instance, the 300-metre-long main street has straight roads on one side (so you can see the azure waters) and curved roads on the other, which provide natural ventilation and shade.
The afternoon I spent wandering was enough for me to know Korcula warrants a return trip, and the Baroque music festival held in September would be a great time to go so as not to contend with peak summer crowds. Hungry for a snack, we spontaneously stopped at Tesoro Pizzeria, where we enjoyed a delectable pizza, a refreshing salad and a side of a spectacular seaview. Here, Lea handed me a box of traditional pastries and a bottle of locally-made Jerolim olive oil that she promised would brighten up dishes I cook at home… she didn’t lie.
SO NEAR, SO HVAR
Being my first time in Croatia, it was initially hard for me to understand how simple it was to get from one coastal town to another. While chartering your own yacht would make for effortless island hopping, it’s just as easy to get around using a public ferry.
We arrived at the bustling harbour of Hvar, the longest island in the Adriatic, which was developed as a key port during Venetian rule. It’s hands down one of the prettiest seaside towns I’ve been to, especially from the vantage point of Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, located at the quiet end of the marina. Be it from their al fresco restaurant or wonderful rooftop terrace, the scene of moored boats on glistening waters set against the striking old town never gets old.
Hvar’s vibrant energy is instantly palpable, and it’s begging to be explored on foot. My eyes were immediately drawn upwards to the mediaeval castle Fortica, but there’s a lot to see on the ground including a pocket beach a short stroll from the hotel. Our guide Jana took us to St. Stephen’s Square (also called “Pjaca”), which at 4,500sqm is the largest in Dalmatia, then we traversed the narrow winding streets of the old town together.
Past and present mingle seamlessly in these Byzantine streets laced with the legacy of floral Gothic architecture. Take a turn and you’ll spot a modern specialty cafe churning out perfect flat whites, take the next lane and you’ll meet a Benedictine monastery creating intricate Agave lace since 1664.
Hvar is an extremely popular summer destination, thanks to the spirited nightlife and a lavender festival in July. I only explored as far as my legs would take me, but next time I’ll be boarding a boat to the beach clubs on the outlying islands and spending the day at Mlini beach, while also enjoying more servings of Gregada, a local fish and potato stew.
ONE FOR THE BOOKS
A trip to Dalmatia isn’t complete without visiting its largest city: Split. The second-biggest city after Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, Split has long attracted the discerning and the influential. Case in point: Diocletian, a Roman emperor who built his personal residence here in the third century AD.
Today, Diocletian’s Palace makes up about 50 percent of Split’s sprawling old town, and is its greatest calling card. Our guide Dino called the palace an “interactive museum” because it is one of the few historical destinations in the world where you can explore freely.
I always reserve a part of my trip for flânerie, and Split is designed for aimless exploration. Both Hotel Ambasador, a sleek luxury property close to the Riva promenade, and Cornaro Hotel, a bijou spot in the heart of the old town, were ideal bases for seeing the city independently.
Split has a dynamic restaurant scene with an abundance of konoba, tavern-like restaurants serving traditional Croatian dishes, many of which are located in the city’s labyrinthine streets. I loved dining under the shade of a large tree at the appropriately named Deep Shade Konoba, as well as enjoyed a modern take on Dalmatian cuisine at Uje Oil Bar.
Travelling with a toddler, convenience often trumps everything else but thankfully Split also has places that meld style and substance, such as the trendy Bokamorra Pizzaurant and the chic Bokeria Kitchen & Wine. What he’ll remember most, however, would be the amazing gelato from Gelateria Emiliana and Ela’s Gelateria Artigianale — two of the city’s best.
At the end of the trip, I learned that dining in Dalmatia is not about certain hero dishes but more about celebrating the quality of their local produce and their unhurried lifestyle. The five days I spent weaving my way around the Dalmatian Coast was like having small plates at a tapas bar—tasty, enjoyable and ultimately leaving me wanting more.